wow, nice feed at Boulderactive today! 5 routes in total, quite pumpy! what a waste on my first route... nearly could finish it.. touched the last tile but couldn't match and end. I should have "make it count!" like Chicken shouted when I was climbing. I heard ok! :) I always believe that the climber on the wall can hear every little cheer that people shout when they are climbing. Okay he or she may not appear to have any response, but I think can hear one, even if they are focused on the route.
2 bonuses, 5 attempts, no tops. disappointing? maybe. I felt the second and fourth routes was really wasted. 2nd route, I didn't dare to be more dynamic to jump to the two-tile bonus. Instead I tried to hook the starting tile and static up. what a move! then fourth route, after getting the bonus I couldn't reach back to the wall to step back the foothold, so I ended up hanging there for quite a while and wasting strength. dui or not? it's okay, I'll take it as a learning experience. Weicheng did quite well! wasted man he managed to get his third top, which would have qualified him for the finals, only two seconds after the whistle had gone. wasted! better luck at Pumpfest!
poor shuhui, she already qualified for the finals with her excellent performance of 4 out of 5 tops, in 5 attempts, but after finishing the last route, she fell quite badly and had to withdraw. feel kind of sorry for her, she really did well today. it's okay pumpfest will be your moment to shine shu! good luck siying for sunday!
LESSONS LEARNT FROM BOULDERACTIVE:
1. Be more dynamic if the move requires it, especially to compensate for lack of height!
2. It's not always necessary to rush to end the route when you are on the second-last tile. Instead, if you are not pump yet, take your time to think and end properly. It won't rank you any higher than someone who only got the bonus even if you fall at the last tile!
3. Don't hop at the starting tile! wow I don't know how many attempts the route judge counted because I hopped. Not that I'd wanted to! the tile was quite a steamy one.
4. It's time to up the level and start climbing out of our comfort zone. If not we are nowhere near Intermediate standard. A lot of the tiles today were hardly any nice to hold. a lot of them gave me the 'want to fall but yet maybe can stick' kind of feeling. DICEY! yes that is the word. time to start climbing with shitty tiles. haha.
more climbing to watch tomorrow. exciting! PONTI. OH MYYY. :D